Ueno Daibutsu...

I'm a big fan of Ueno Park.  On my last two trips to Japan, while visiting Tokyo, I stayed at a hotel in Taito City within walking distance of the park.  In March and April the cherry blossoms are amazing as the park has around 1000 cherry trees.  But the Japanese locals enjoying the hanami - cherry blossom viewing - eating, drinking and just relaxing are the best.  It's hard to imagine us American's doing anything like it.

Additionally, there are amazing museums, temples, shrines, a pond as well as great places to just stroll in the park to just enjoy Japan's cultural richness.  

Despite all that, there is one thing in the park that, at least to me, stands out as totally unique, a one of a kind, totally worth seeking out, a really special thing.  Especially if you are a Dharma person.

It's the Ueno Daibutsu.  Yeah, move over Nara, Ueno has it's own Great Buddha.

On the grounds of the Ueno Daibutsu is a really unusual stupa, almost Indian in it's design and feeling.  It's marked with Siddham syllables on the four sides of it's middle layer, signaling a tantric connection.  In contrast, the eight spoked Dharma Wheel (a symbol of the Eight Fold Path) that adorn it's doors link it to the historical Buddha and his original teachings.  The moss growing on it's shoulders, gives it a very ancient and natural look and feel.

Originally, the Ueno Daibutsu was an Edo Period (1603 - 1868) bronze statue of Shakamuni Buddha dating to 1631.  Here he is in his original, meditative glory...

The Ueno Daibutsu was struck by an earthquake early on after it's casting but restored in 1640.  A fire in 1841 and another earthquake in 1855 both required additional restoration.  But the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 toppled the statue's head...

And then much of the remaining body was melted down for Japan's Pacific War, what we call World War II.  

Sadly, only Shakamuni's face is left for us to see, appreciate and know today...

It's simply amazing that we can see this Buddha's face hundred's of years and untold catastrophes after it's creation.  It's lidded eyes and serene features are vivid and full of meaning, having survived almost 400 tumultuous years.  The efforts of the Japanese people who preserved this Buddha face against all odds are even more amazing than what remains of the original statue.  I know I'm grateful to them all.

If you happen to be in Tokyo, please visit Ueno Park and try to find this Buddha.  He's well worth a visit...

jim

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ueno_Daibutsu

P.S. If you are interested in the study and practice of Shingon, one of Japan's few surviving tantric (vajrayana) traditions please reach out to us at mandalavermont@gmail.com...

Book Review: A History of Japan...

I found this book in a bookstore in the Naritia Airport as I waited for my flight back to Vermont.  I picked it up with every intention of reading it on the plane.  Instead I watched three movies trying to pass the time as I was so psyched to be heading home I just couldn't concentrate enough to read.  

But since I've been back I've been (slowly) reading this book and I have to say it's great.  It starts with Japanese pre-history, which may stretch back 30,000 years and traces Japanese history, life and culture up to the Occupation after World War II.  It treats cultural elements such as poetry, religion, art and architecture with wonderful appreciation as well as politics and war with informative detail.

But most of all it reminded me that all of Buddhism, with our Shingon being no exception happens in a historical context that shapes, contributes and even constrains its expression, development and eventual character.  And if anyone wishes to understand Shingon or Buddhism or anything cultural phenomena it has to include what we can and can't know about the time and place it happened.

So, even though I haven't finished it yet, I'm very enthusiastic about this book.  Give it a try if you want to get a nice introduction to Japan's history without going back to college.

jim

A History of Japan, Revised Edition

R.H.P. Mason & J.G. Caiger

Tuttle Publishing

1997

Japan Trip, Spring 2024: Intro...

In spring of 2023 I was able to visit Japan after not travelling there since 2008.  Most of the Covid related restrictions had eased, allowing me to again visit Ajari Tanaka.  I hadn't seen him since his last Vermont visit (2019), an interruption of nearly four years.  True to form, he met me at the airport and we rode the Keisei Skyliner to the station in Ueno near my hotel.

It was wonderful to reconnect after all those years.   Prior to this interruption, from 2000 to 2019 he visited Vermont every year (except once) for a two week visit during which he conducted sangha retreats, gave advanced teachings, visited his Vermont friends, performed calligraphy demonstrations, led meditations and among lots of other stuff, just enjoyed the time in a place he'd lived for twelve years.

Prior to 1999, as Ajari lived here in Vermont and I saw him all the time and actively trained with him for ten years.  That was the best.  Really, the absolute best...

So I was pretty spoiled and had grown accustomed to spending time with Ajari Tanaka regularly, training and working on things with him and just visiting, enjoying his company.

But now Ajari is older and it doesn't seem like a long trek to Vermont is in the cards. 

Plus, I have gotten a taste for visiting Japan, so I went back again this spring.  The trip included a short stay in Tokyo, the final section of the Shikoku pilgrimage with Ajari and his Japanese students (amazing), a brief visit to Koyasan (also with Ajari and his students), a long visit to Nara (fantastic) and then a few more days in Tokyo.  It was spectacular.

I'm already plotting my 2025 trip...

Stay tuned for the details from this year's trip...

P.S. If you are interested in the study and practice of Shingon as taught by Ajari Tanaka please email us at mandalavermont@gmail.com...