I'm a big fan of Ueno Park. On my last two trips to Japan, while visiting Tokyo, I stayed at a hotel in Taito City within walking distance of the park. In March and April the cherry blossoms are amazing as the park has around 1000 cherry trees. But the Japanese locals enjoying the hanami - cherry blossom viewing - eating, drinking and just relaxing are the best. It's hard to imagine us American's doing anything like it.
Additionally, there are amazing museums, temples, shrines, a pond as well as great places to just stroll in the park to just enjoy Japan's cultural richness.
Despite all that, there is one thing in the park that, at least to me, stands out as totally unique, a one of a kind, totally worth seeking out, a really special thing. Especially if you are a Dharma person.
It's the Ueno Daibutsu. Yeah, move over Nara, Ueno has it's own Great Buddha.
On the grounds of the Ueno Daibutsu is a really unusual stupa, almost Indian in it's design and feeling. It's marked with Siddham syllables on the four sides of it's middle layer, signaling a tantric connection. In contrast, the eight spoked Dharma Wheel (a symbol of the Eight Fold Path) that adorn it's doors link it to the historical Buddha and his original teachings. The moss growing on it's shoulders, gives it a very ancient and natural look and feel.
Originally, the Ueno Daibutsu was an Edo Period (1603 - 1868) bronze statue of Shakamuni Buddha dating to 1631. Here he is in his original, meditative glory...
The Ueno Daibutsu was struck by an earthquake early on after it's casting but restored in 1640. A fire in 1841 and another earthquake in 1855 both required additional restoration. But the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 toppled the statue's head...
And then much of the remaining body was melted down for Japan's Pacific War, what we call World War II.
Sadly, only Shakamuni's face is left for us to see, appreciate and know today...
It's simply amazing that we can see this Buddha's face hundred's of years and untold catastrophes after it's creation. It's lidded eyes and serene features are vivid and full of meaning, having survived almost 400 tumultuous years. The efforts of the Japanese people who preserved this Buddha face against all odds are even more amazing than what remains of the original statue. I know I'm grateful to them all.
If you happen to be in Tokyo, please visit Ueno Park and try to find this Buddha. He's well worth a visit...
jim
Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ueno_Daibutsu
P.S. If you are interested in the study and practice of Shingon, one of Japan's few surviving tantric (vajrayana) traditions please reach out to us at mandalavermont@gmail.com...
